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- HEALTH, Page 59Comeback Time For Coffee
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- Let's have another cup and straighten this out
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- Can it be true this time? After all the up-and-down reviews
- that coffee has received from medical researchers over the
- years, is it now possible to savor the dark brew without pangs
- of guilt? Can it really be that an energizing jolt of java, so
- good for the soul, is not bad for the body either?
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- That is the momentous implication of the latest in an
- interminable line of coffee studies. It is tempting to pay
- attention to this one, published last week in the New England
- Journal of Medicine, since it represents a large-scale research
- effort and bears the prestigious stamp of the Harvard School
- of Public Health. The school's investigators studied 45,589 men
- aged 40 to 75 years, some of whom averaged six or more cups of
- coffee daily. (As is too often the case in medical research,
- women were left out of the study.) The finding: these coffee
- drinkers were no more susceptible to strokes or heart attacks
- than anybody else. The results could ease the minds of the 100
- million or so Americans who drink an average of 3 1/2 cups a
- day. "This is a very important study," says cardiologist
- Francois Abboud, president of the American Heart Association.
- "From a public-health standpoint, we cannot advise people to
- stop drinking coffee."
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- Even this report, however, has its ambiguities. The
- researchers found that the people in the study who drank four
- or more cups of decaffeinated coffee a day had a slightly
- higher risk of coronary heart disease. That's puzzling because
- caffeine has generally been fingered as the most noxious
- ingredient in coffee. The report's authors caution that the
- slim evidence against decaf may be a statistical fluke.
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- But what about all the other studies that have tentatively
- linked coffee not only to heart attacks but also to calcium
- loss, pancreatic cancer, colon cancer, increased cholesterol
- levels, birth defects and difficulty in getting pregnant, to
- say nothing of damage to computer keyboards and silk neckties?
- Though some of these investigations have been superseded by
- contrary research, it is virtually impossible for anyone --
- expert or layman -- to sort them all out.
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- The Harvard report, in short, will suffice until the next
- study indicating that a paper cup of coffee is more salutary
- than coffee drunk from a mug. Or that coffee is good till the
- last drop dead.
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